330/365 - Published - A Hike Along the Cinque Terre

The local newspaper prints submissions from readers for their Travel pages. The article I wrote on the Cinque Terre was published this morning, along with several photos from that portion of the trip.



Since I never blogged about our Cinque Terre hike between all five villages, I am including it here. With more pictures as a bonus.

Along the Ligurian coast of Italy, the Cinque Terre offers travelers a respite from the museums and historical attractions of the main cities in Italy. The Cinque Terre consists of five villages, all built into the rugged coastline. The area surrounding the villages is part of the Cinque Terre National Park. To reach the Cinque Terre, you have two main avenues – by car or by train. The train from La Spezia services all five villages and if you have a car, you can park at the La Spezia station. If you plan to drive, be prepared for steep and narrow roads as well as hairpin turns that seem to take you over a cliff. Once you reach your destination, you’ll have to park the car, as most roads are limited to pedestrian traffic.

The main attractions in the Cinque Terre include beaches, breathtaking coastal scenery, and the network of hiking trails along the coast and up through vineyards and olive groves. During our visit, we chose to hike the Blue Path, or “Sentiero Azzurro”, which allowed us to experience each of the five villages. To gain access the hiking trails you must purchase a Cinque Terre Card, available at each of the train stations in the villages. A basic day pass costs 5 Euro, and multi-day passes are available. The entire Blue Path can be traversed in one day, or in portions spread over two or more days if you prefer a more leisurely pace.

Perhaps the most famous portion of the Blue Path is called the Via Dell’Amore (Lover’s Walk) and takes you between the southernmost village, Riomaggiore, to its sister village of Manarola. Along the paved walk, locks and graffiti adorn the fence line, even the rocks. Couples write their initials on the locks, along with a date (maybe an anniversary, maybe the current date), in order to represent "locking" their love forever. This trail only takes half an hour to complete, and at the height of tourist season is extremely crowded.


Riomaggiore Marina


Locks of Love Along the Via Dell'Amore

From Manarola, it’s a leisurely 90 minute walk along the path (portions are paved), winding you along the coastline towards Corniglia, smallest and quietest of the Five Lands. But before you think you have arrived, you must climb the Lardarina, or series of stairs, comprised of 382 steps. Alternatively you can take the bus instead of the stairs.

The Walkway to Corniglia


The Rugged Coastline

After Corniglia, the hiking trail becomes much more challenging. The trail to Vernazza takes you away from the coast and up through olive groves and vineyards. The path is un-paved, uneven and rocky and takes you up and well above the villages. Be sure to look back at Corniglia because the view back is as stunning as the view going forward. After two hours you will be rewarded as Vernazza reveals itself from behind the trees.

Looking Back at Corniglia


Vernazza Appears


Vernazza's Marina


Overlooking Vernazza. We're Pretty Tired at This Point, but Push On towards Monterosso

The final leg between Vernazza and Monterosso will take another two hours, up and down through the lush forest and then through more vineyards. The trail includes steep stone stairs and narrow paths, but is less rocky than the previous leg. Once you reach Monterosso, you can dip your tired feet in the turquoise waters of its large, sandy beach front.


Scott and Dave Pose Among the Grapes


Our Last Look at the Hiking Path once in Monterosso. Can You Tell the Sun is Setting? I think we arrived back around 7pm. The hike took us over 8 hours!

In between each leg of the Blue Path, we took time to rest and explore each village. The villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola are a delight to wander through, with narrow, winding alleys, colorful Italian buildings and boat filled marinas. In quiet Corniglia, we enjoyed lunch at an outdoor café in the small piazza. Vernazza’s main plaza opens up to a small beach and harbor. Two towers flank the town – the clock tower of the Church of Santa Margherita d'Antiochia and the Doria Castle. Of the five villages, the northern most Monterosso Al Mare feels more resort-like and touristy. Monterosso boasts a large sandy beach and numerous modern hotels - perhaps not as quaint as the other villages, but with plenty to see and do.

The Beach in Monterosso

Rooms rates during the summer range from $100 for basic accommodations to upwards of $250 for a three star hotel. Off season rates will be lower, and the area less crowded with tourists.

With so much natural beauty, the Cinque Terre is a beautiful diversion to enjoy. Even if hiking isn’t your thing, you can still relax on the beach, eat delicious seafood, pasta and gelato – all with a beautiful view of the sea.

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Back to Italy - Arriving in the Cinque Terre – Monterosso

Yes, I still intend to complete the "Stories of Italy". Slowly but surely! Afterall, I still need to create a Blurb Book with all the pictures and stories....For previous entries, click on this handy-dandy Italy Trip Link

Our drive out of Modena led us north on the A1 past Parma, then south on the A15 towards the Ligurian coast. Along the trip, we viewed the beautiful mountains of the Tosco-Emiliano National Park, before heading into the Cinque Terre.

Driving in the Cinque Terre reminded me and Scott of our adventures in Scotland, three years ago - narrow roads and limited visibility with the added feature of sharp cliffs to the sea. I am glad I wasn’t driving. We felt much better once we could see the coastal beach coming ever closer and finally, we had arrived on the main strip of Monterosso al Mare, the furthest north village of the Cinque Terre.

We checked into our hotel, La Spiaggia, located right along the Monterosso’s long strip of beach.


After the three hour car ride, it felt good to be out and about, taking in the beautiful ocean view and breezes. And check out the view from the room. (This was the view from Dave and Dawn’s room, but ours was very similar, being two floors down).

The first thing we checked out was the beach where we dipped our feet in the salty water.

Monterosso is the largest of the five villages of Cinque Terre, with a lively resort and touristy feel. The temperature was perfect – in the low 80s with that cool ocean breeze (we just missed the heat wave from a couple weeks back).

We enjoyed dinner outside as the sun went down, and as we walked back to explore the shops along the walkway, we saw a full moon rise above the mountains.

And yes, the image is a composite of two shots, but it gives you an idea of how beautiful it was at night! We experienced our first gelato from the little stand right outside our hotel before calling it a night.

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Back to Italy - What Happened in Modena, July 26, 2010

Continuing on the story of our trip to Italy. Please note that I am still only on Day 2 of the trip. At this rate, I'll still be recounting the trip a year from now! For previous entries, click on this handy-dandy Italy Trip Link

We followed the road signs to the “Centro” of town. [We found the road signs very helpful while navigating the cities we visited – when in doubt, head towards the “Centro” and you’ll get there]

We parked by the city park, on the edge of the "medieval or historical" center and set off to find a place for lunch – accomplished by Dawn asking complete strangers on the street.
[Dawn is not shy when it comes to talking to complete strangers – she had her Italian phrase cheat sheet in her camera bag.]

Of course, some of the details are always “lost in the translation” (Like the word “coniglio”, which means rabbit, but for some reason, we thought it meant “expensive” – imagine the quizzical looks on the Italians when we asked if a certain item was “coniglio”).

We were able to wind our way through the streets of Modena, but could not find the restaurant we were seeking. Until we walked around the block twice, and then down a random side street and viola – there it was!

Of course, I don’t remember the restaurant’s name – there are no big, neon lit signs in front of most establishments here. We enjoyed our meal with our funny server – to read about that, you’ll have to head over to my photography blog where I originally outlined our lunch experience when the trip was still somewhat fresh in my mind!

But I won’t leave this post without new pictures....

Gates to a private courtyard:


Looking into the Modena Duomo through a side window:


Before we headed back on the road, we knew we should all “go to the potty” and I had spotted a sign for a public “WC” in the park area. And thus we experienced our first paid WC encounter. Very bizarre and not such a good deal at 1 Euro for a trip to the loo. I’ll admit, we shared…..

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Back to Italy - Family Properties, July 26, 2010

Note: Parts of this post were originally published on my photography blog.

After our trip up the Clock Tower in Fanano, Giovanni led us to the old property where Dave’s Grandmother grew up. Aunt Eva accompanied us, making for a truly memorable experience. Walking up the hill to the property, Aunt Eva, Dave’s grandmother’s sister, refused any offer of assistance – she is a strong, independent woman. We didn’t understand much of what was said between Eva and Giovanni, but her actions told us the story – that she remembered the large Oak Trees. That she remembered the times growing up by the fruit trees and grapevines. That she could see her sister’s husband reflected in Dave’s face.


We loved the old, rustic touches of this property and learned that Lamborghini makes more than sports cars!




Next, we visited the farmhouse where Dave’s Grandfather once lived, and where we experienced the gracious kindness and hospitality of strangers. A beautiful woman and her grandmother served us a nice snack, even though we were foreigners and were traipsing around their property. All we could do was smile to show our appreciation.




Finally, we bid our goodbyes to Giovanni and Eva. Giovanni set us on our way to navigate the Italian roads alone, but well equipped to find our way to Modena and then to Cinque Terre.

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Back to Italy - Morning Stop in Fanano, July 26, 2010

As time does not belong to me
Although I always tell it,
No certain time is yours, O traveller.

(Fanano Clock Tower, inscription dated October 20th, 1609)

Monday morning comes and we check out of the lovely Gabriella Hotel, but not until we’ve had some breakfast. I opted for a straight up shot of dark, strong espresso to accompany the rolls, muesli and yogurt.



Before leaving, we (Dawn and I) get to check out the hotel’s wine cellar and the other sections of the hotel grounds. I would be happy to stay another day, but we have a full day of travel ahead of us – we will visit the commune of Fanano, head into Modena and drive 3 hours to the west coast – to the Cinque Terre.






It is a beautiful, cool morning in the mountains, and the Hotel Gabriella peeks out at us as we drive away, a ray of yellow through the forest of green.


Giovanni leads us to our first stop in Fanano, where we meet up with Dave’s Aunt Eva. We walk into the town square, quite conscious of our “tourist” appearance (again, no Asians around in these parts). I snapped pictures of some of the local goods before we come to the large clock tower in the far corner of the town.

Eva and a Friend








Some information about the Clock Tower and Palazzo Lardi, taken from a website on Fanano

Standing at the beginning of Via Sabbatini, it was built in 1340 as the headquarters of the Infantry Corps, later served as a gendarmerie with prison, and then became a private residence. In 1433 it housed Cosimo de’ Medici during his exile from Florence, and in 1439 it gave accommodation to Pope Eugene IV on his return from the Council of Ferrara. In the XVI Century the facade was decorated in Tuscan style, with the fine main doorway. In 1607 it was purchased by Pietro Lardi, a nobleman of Ferrara sent to Fanano by the Este family as Commissar; the building is still owned by the Lardi family. The adjoining Clock Tower, which once guarded the gateway to the castle, was raised in 1609 to create space for the mechanism of the clock with bell, the work of a skilled local craftsman. The Tower is still owned by the Municipality and was completely restored during 2005.

Admiring the tall clock tower, we are surprised when Giovanni appears with a set of keys, which he uses to open up a door at the base of the structure. We climb the steep stairs up and up through the structure for our own private tour.




A beautiful view from up top – and then the bell started to chime – it’s 11am.

Looking down at The Church of San Silvestro


It's Loud When the Bell Chimes


Clock Gears



Upon leaving the Bell Tower, Dawn notices the plaque above the doorway we entered through:


Oh, how fortunate we were to have Giovanni as our tour guide in Fanano.

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Back to Italy - Hit the High Road to the Mountains near Sestola

Sunday morning arrives and we’re not sure what the plan is – until I receive a phone call from Dave’s cousin, Barbara. They will meet us at the airport, at the rental car counter around noon, and we will drive up to the family farm house near Sestola.

Another plug for Hertz rental car in Europe – they set us up with this HUGE Fiat Doblo. I reserved a mid-size vehicle (the only thing they had available at late notice), and based on the specs listed, I wasn’t sure if it would fit all of our luggage. My only regret - not taking a picture of us by the car.

Note – the Thrifty / Dollar Rental Car desk was STILL CLOSED. Never rent from them overseas!!

Barbara and her husband, Robbie, identified us me right away (How many other Asian people have I seen since arriving in Italy? That would be zero. I guess there are advantages to standing out).

We throw our luggage into the huge rental car. We have a little trouble trying to start the darn thing - we thought – cars are different over here – isn’t there a button to push? Something special with the key? We over-thought the process. A rental car attendance thought we were crazy when we stated we couldn’t start the car – he showed us by simply turning the key in the ignition. Wow – this one starts up the same as the cars in the States – how novel!

We follow Barbara and Robbie up to the mountains of the Emilia-Romagna Region. Traditionally a winter ski-resort area, we climb higher and higher through winding roads. We travel to about 5000 ft above sea level, not quite as high up as what we experienced last year in Colorado, but close.

We arrive at Barbara’s family farmhouse, a beautiful property looking out to the mountains.



We are descended upon by the rest of Barbara’s family, just as if we are part of their family – with hugs and kisses on the both cheeks (kiss right first, then left). Barbara’s dad, Giovanni, has picked up Dave and Dawn in Florence and they are on their way! Yay! Oh, but they don’t have their checked luggage! Boo!

The long farmhouse table is set and the food is ready. Scott asks, “Should we wait for Giovanni?”, and the response from his wife, Elenor is “Oh, NO! We eat now!” and she points for us to sit, pours us some wine and starts putting out lots of food, including homemade taggliatelle with porcini, rabbit cacciatore, pancetta, prosciutto, salad, wine and more wine.






When Giovanni arrives with Dave and Dawn, we all go out to greet them. More hugs and kisses ensue. The last time I saw either Dave or Dawn was in 2004 – way too many years ago. The great thing with friends like them, you can pick up years later right where you left off. In no time, we are all laughing about their travel adventures, about the gorgeous view and taking pictures of it all.

I watch Elenor use a flat grill to make crescentine, a flat bread you eat with various spreads (bacon fat mixed with garlic and rosemary), prosciutto, and pancetta.

Later, we watch Barbara spread some Nutella on the crescentine, something that Scott then tries, and now we have a new Nutella lover on our hands.

We all sit down to eat and talk and laugh


Of the family, Barbara is the most fluent in English and serves as interpreter. I love how much she talks with her hands!

After lunch, we take time to explore the grounds, taking lots of group photos.

Dawn and Giovanni


Dave and Scott


Barbara, Robbie, Dawn, Dave


What Dawn Would like To Hit Air France With


The Travelers

Most of the extended family says their goodbyes (more kisses and hugs), and we follow Robbi and Barbara to Canavare, where we check into our hotel, the Hotel Gabriella. Then we drive to the town of Sestola, a quaint ski resort village to explore, take in the sights and walk off some of that big dinner!









We finish the day with a light dinner at the Farmhouse before heading back to the hotel. Tomorrow we will explore the village of Fanano, visit the properties where Dave’s family grew up and then head to the coastal area of the Cinque Terre.

More pictures from Sestola, Fanano and Canavare may be found at my Sestola, Italy Flickr Set.

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